Montana | Banjo and Layla's Lifestyle and Travel

Cindy Baker

On Day 2 we drove from Billings to Red Lodge to Cook City then into Yellowstone National Park via the Northeast entrance. Yellowstone park is huge! It covers three states (Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho) and has five entrances.

Insider Tip: We had to pay a $35 fee to enter the park, but it was good for 7 days. You just have to show your receipt and driver’s license at the gate each time to enter the park through any entrance.

As a teacher, I thought this display was so interesting.

We traveled from the Northeast Entrance to Tower-Roosevelt to Mammoth Hot Springs, both of which are in Wyoming. Hotels and campgrounds fill up quickly, so make sure you have secured lodging in or near the park before planning your trip. Also, we learned that we could not get anywhere quickly in the park. Plan a minimum of 40 minutes travel time between junctions or visitor service areas on the Grand Loop Road.

The speed limit in Yellowstone is 45 mph except where posted slower, but it was crowded when we were there (July 4 holiday week) and people frequently pull over to the side of the road or slow down to view or photograph wildlife. One of my biggest regrets is not having a good camera with a zoom lens. All of the shots in this blog post were taken with my i-phone, and so many times the animals were just too far away for me to really get a good photo with my phone. From all of the research and ratings I have read this is the sort of camera I would get:

On this trip my husband actually did all of the driving, and I would look for animals and have him stop or pull over frequently so I could take a picture, but he said he didn’t mind. The views were so spectacular that driving was actually pleasant. Be prepared for a lot of driving in order to see the park. Even though we were just there a week, we still felt like we got to see what we wanted to see in that amount of time. The best thing to do is to visit early in the day to avoid crowds. Park entrance gates are open 24-hours. Wildlife are most active at sunrise and sunset, so arriving early gives you the best chance to observe animals.

Another thing we learned is that cell phone service is very limited (almost none) in the park and surrounding areas. During peak hours the cellular network is very slow and your provider may not roam on networks in Yellowstone. Wi-Fi is available at the Mammoth Hotel, the Old Faithful Snow lodge, Lake Lodge cafeteria, and the Canyon and Grant Lodges for a fee. The Visitor Center in Mammoth Hot Springs has free Wi-Fi. Data speeds are very limited outside of that area through. Very frustrating if you are a blogger!

Elk were everywhere around the Mammoth Hot Springs Visitor Center.

Our first tourist stop in the park was Mammoth Hot Springs, which is made up of all of these rock terraces shaped by water over time. The water concentration and vents change quickly and constantly. Water follows the path of least resistance, whether it is above or under the ground, so it is almost like rocks are forming before your eyes. There are wooden boardwalks that we walked on throughout the rock and water features, making it easy to see everything without having to walk in the mud or hot earth.

This waterfall is near Mammoth Hot Springs.

From there we went back out of the park through the West Entrance to West Yellowstone, MT. We stayed about 5 minutes from the west entrance at West Yellowstone Bed and Breakfast (https://www.westyellowstonebandb.com), where Deborah was a wonderful hostess.

West Yellowstone, Montana is a cool little town. West Yellowstone was incorporated in 1966 but has existed as a gateway community to Yellowstone National Park since the early 1900s. Although it is a small community with a population of approximately 1300 people, visitation to West Yellowstone tops 4 million people per year. The winters can be extreme, so there are fewer visitors in the colder months. When we were there in July the weather was perfect! Low humidity, mid 70’s in temperature, clean air. Having had allergies all my life and especially during pollen season in Memphis, I was so excited to be able to breathe through both sides of my nose for once! There are several restaurants, gift shops, and ice cream or taco trucks.

The Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center http://www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org is pretty cool to walk through. There is sort of a mini zoo at the end with real wolves and bears. There is also the Yellowstone Historic Center in an old train depot with some history exhibits if that’s your thing. See my Day 5 report for some pics and video of an awesome Fourth of July parade right down the center of town. Tomorrow we will go see Old Faithful! Stay tuned for my Day 3 post.

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Watch here for a short video of Day 2 here:

by Cindy Baker

Day 1 of our Wild West Adventure – Flying from Memphis, Tennessee to Billings, Montana provided incredible views of the majestic Rocky Mountains, abundant rivers, canyons, and so much green everywhere. I always prefer the window seat on an airplane for this very reason. We were so excited to be away from the heat and humidity we are used to and to explore Big Sky country where you can see for miles and miles. It is absolutely gorgeous!

We spent our first night in Billings and found the town to be quite charming. The city’s tag line is “Montana’s Trailhead,” and although we did not hike that day we could see that there are many trails in the shadows of the Rimrocks and along the rivers and streams. Billings has hundreds of acres of city parks and 47 miles of walking and biking trails that surround the city. Seven miles of these trails are along the beautiful Yellowstone River. You can get a complete map of Billings’ trail systems at VisitBillings.com/goplay.

Montana is known for fly fishing, so we saw lots of fishermen and women in the many creeks and rivers all throughout Montana and Wyoming. Remember the movie “A River Runs Through It?” Call the Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks (406-247-2940) for information about fishing access sites and licenses. There are many other outdoor activities, a zoo, shopping, restaurants, and more. If you are a beer drinker there is even Montana’s only walkable Brewery Trail in the heart of downtown Billings. In fact, almost every town near Yellowstone has several micro-breweries.

Mountain Streams like this one are all throughout Montana.

Insider Tip: You can even stop by the Visitor Information Center to borrow a bike for the day or find a bike rental location close by. You can borrow the bike for free, but a credit card is required to guarantee the return of the undamaged bike.

Great Restaurant: Lunch at the Montana Club restaurant was absolutely delicious! https://www.montanaclub.com/billings-restaurant-steak-prime-rib-seafood-burgers-happy-hour/

Jack Daniels Steak Bites – Filet Mignon sauteed with peppers and onions, glazed with Jack Daniels Brown Sugar Sauce and topped with Skinny Onion Rings. What?!!

Montana has a lot of Native American culture, which is really cool. The Crow and Northern Cheyenne reservations are located near Billings. How did the Crow get their name? The Crow reservation, established in 1851, originally had the tribal name of “Apsaalooke,” which in their native tongue means “children of the large beaked bird.” Over time this name was misinterpreted, turning the tribe into the “Crow.” The Northern Cheyenne Reservation, established in 1884, has some tourist attractions such as a historical buffalo jump, burial sites of Indian Chiefs, Custer’s last camp before the Battle of Little Big Horn and St. Labre Indian School. There are also cultural centers and three museums.

Insider Tip: When in a reservation always ask before taking a picture, since some cultural traditions may not welcome this in all areas.

The Yellowstone Kelly interpretive Site is at the top of Sword’s Rimrock Park and overlooks downtown Billings. Luther Sage “Yellowstone” Kelly was one of the most notable frontiersman, American veteran, and warriors of his time. You can visit YellowstoneKelly.org to check out the 24-hour live stream video. Probably the most famous of all Western explorer/settler stories is the story of Lewis and Clark (1804-1806). Captain William Clark spent three years with Lewis exploring this region. Clark and his men passed through Billings in July 1806 on their way to Pompeys Pillar, where his signature remains carved into the pillar to this day. Other notable people of history include Preston Boyd Moss, who started the Billings Gazette and Billings Utility Company, Frederick Billings, who made a name for himself during the gold rush and ended up getting this town named after him, and my favorite “Calamity Jane.” Martha Canary, better known as Calamity Jane, was known for chewing tobacco, heavy drinking, and acting out in general. She spent a lot of time in Billings at a log cabin on Canyon Creek from 1893 – 1902.

Motorcycle enthusiast? The number one motorcycling road in America, according to American Motorcyclist magazine is about 60 miles from Billings: U.S. Highway 212, better known as the BearTooth Highway. Many hotels even have bike washing stations. We tried to drive up to see the views the day we stayed in Billings, but when we got near the top it started hailing! Yes, in July. We don’t see hail in July in Memphis; that’s for sure. So even though we decided to turn back early that day we went back over the mountain pass on our way back to the Billings airport from West Yellowstone at the end of our trip and were amazed at how high up we were (it climbs to 10,947 feet above sea level) and how beautiful the scenery is. Over 950 alpine and glacial lakes, the snowed covered Beartooth Mountains, green valleys. These mountains boast 20 peaks over 12,000 feet in elevation (including Granite Peak, Montana’s highest at 12,799 feet). There really are no words. I have climbed 14,000 + footers in Colorado, skied the Swiss Alps, and been on the Italian Riviera, but the views from the BearTooth Highway might outweigh them all. Named “the most beautiful roadway in America” by On the Road correspondent Charles Kuralt, it is definitely worth the drive!

Insider Tip: If you are renting a car, get one with four-wheel drive built for climbing steep hills. A small economy car won’t cut it. Also make sure the brakes work!

Our view going over the mountain pass on the Bear Tooth Highway

Red Lodge: To get up to the mountain pass from Billings on the BearTooth Highway you have to go through a quaint little town at the foot of the mountain called Red Lodge (elevation 5,555). The main street downtown, called Broadway, is lined with cute locally owned gift shops, art galleries, antique shops, boutiques, a bookstore, a candy store, and over twenty eateries. It sort of felt like we were walking around a movie set.

Insider Tip: Plan on at least two ½ hours driving time to get from Red Lodge to Yellowstone – more if you plan on stopping a lot. The road is very steep and winding.